The key to avoiding problems with a hose or any type of valve extension is to be sure the outer end is
S O L I D.
Some hose kits come with small brackets that can be pop-riveted to hub cap. Others have brackets that attach to lug nut.
People often fail to support the hose or bracket when checking or adding air. The force needed to get a good air seal is enough to bend or loosen the hose mounts. or they inadvertently twist the hose and end up with a leak where the hose screws onto the metal valve.
You need to hold the outer end of the hose firmly to prevent movement or twisting or you can expect to eventually have problems.
In THIS blog post, you can see my set-up (42,000 mi) w/ no leaks or failures.
Since I run a +10% psi margin over the minimum pressure I need on my Class-C based on 4 corner weights and since I always run TPMS (that I have tested) I simply use the TPMS to tell me the inflation each morning before I start out.
During a cross country trip OH > OR > OH over 7 weeks I only needed to add air once so since I am not messing with the hose extensions, I am not pushing on their mounts or applying a force that might result in a slow leak.
If/when I ever do need to remove a sensor to change a battery or add air, I ALWAYS spritz Windex to check for any leaks after I am done.
##RVT926
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